A SARTORIAL PRIMER
Liam Jefferies takes a back-to-basics approach to the rules of men’s dress, just in case you haven’t been paying attention for the last 99 issues
Chances are, if you are reading this, our 100th publication, that you have picked up a certain cognisance on the unspoken rules of dress.
However, in turbulent times of menswear, with pre-ripped denim and ankle-socks abundant, one feels the need to address once more the rules governing the land of sartoria.
Tom Ford once stated that “dressing well is a form of good manners” and a chap is nothing if not well-mannered. Ergo sum, the following aims to provide an exploration on these such rules. If the idea of a refresher course in clogs and togs seems absurd, fear not, as this merely proves you are reading the correct quarterly tome. For those of you whom the guidelines are less apparent, press on.
Dress for the weather, then the occasion.
If you haven’t come to a conclusion after ticking both these boxes, you own too many clothes. A simple wardrobe well executed will always be preferable to being a clothes-horse, and nothing says menswear neophyte like french cuffs worn with casual trousers.
Wear a suit, don’t let a suit wear you.
If there is one rule you follow, make it this, the correct way to button up a suit coat is referred to as the “Sometimes, Always, Never” rule. That is, given there is a three-button stance, the top button is fastened should the weather allow, the middle is the a must, and the bottom button is strictly cosmetic, and should only be fastened if absolutely necessary (see Jean-Paul Belmondo hiding his gun in Jean-Luc Godard’s À Bout de Souffle). The reasoning for this most desultory of fastenings stems from King Edward VII, who was of a rotund build, and often couldn’t fasten the bottom button of his waistcoat. Whether from respect of fear of faux pas, his court followed suit, and it soon became de rigueur. Whilst birthed from a foible, in modern times the leaving of one’s bottom button denotes that the jacket is cut correctly, and the button itself has been rendered superfluous.
Suit sleeves should show a bit of shirt, if the cuff skirts the first knuckle of your thumb, they are too long, similarly, if your cufflinks are permanently on show, then you have already played your sartorial hand, and have nothing “up the sleeve” so-to-say. Men’s accessories should lift an outfit, not dictate them. A collar pin, a tie clip or elegantly folded square are tremendous ways to add a certain elegance to an outfit, but worn all at once looks too pre-determined and busy. A general rule is one “accessory” per outfit, and most often this is your watch. Wear a watch, reading the time from your field telephone merely connotes your dependance on it. The same goes with a pen, invest in a good quality pen and carry it everywhere, saves your hands from germs and your reputation from floundering.
It seems that for some the challenges continue outside the fitting room, as many’s the time one has had to bear witness to tacking stitches left on vents, for the love of all that is holy, if you do one thing, remove these. The same applies for the cloth label on the cuff, no one is impressed by your super 150s, they’re trying to figure out how you managed to shoplift a blazer.
The place where this falls to debate is in regards to pockets. Of course, the breast pocket tacking will need to be removed to make space for a pocket square, but the front pockets are often sewn shut as this renders a better drape on the fabric, if one carries their possessions in a briefcase (not a rucksack) or inside breast pockets, then by all means, leave these closed.
Don’t fear a pocket square.
Good for you, you have accepted that first and foremost of detailing, the pocket square. A pocket square is not a handkerchief, so buy silk and don’t blow your nose on it. A hankie should sit within your inside breast pocket and be reserved for lending out to someone who needs it. With that hurdle overcome you merely have to be attentive to complimenting your neckwear. Match a colour or two, and have fun mixing patterns, but never go too matchy-matchy, save giving the impression you bought both tie and square in a gift set alongside a bottle of aggressive cologne with a name like “midnight prowl”.
Shirts should have long sleeves.
With the exception of private investigator Thomas Magnum, short sleeves, like short trousers, are best left to children’s Sunday dress. When in doubt, roll the sleeves up, you can still expose that forearm tattoo you haven’t come to regret yet, and will not look like a desk body on a work trip to Bermuda.
Wear a tie, and wear it well.
The adage goes; “Always wear a tie when you are asking for money”, and this is because you wish to be seen as a responsible, attentive individual with at least a rudimentary ability in knot-tying. Put any fears of being overdressed out of your mind, as you’ll simply look like you have somewhere better to be afterwards. Tie width should match the width of one’s lapels, and when tied, the blade should sit so it half conceals the button of your trousers. Master the four-in-hand knot, followed by the half and full Windsor as the collar demands, the wider the cutaway, the thicker the knot. The basic’s of ties covered, here is an aspect of menswear in which a degree of fun can be had, consider the Italian art of “sprezzatura”, a sense of studied carelessness, imperfect tying on a bow tie is a necessity, but with a regular tie playing with the length can add an element of “i just threw this on”-ness particularly when combined with the continental sense of twisting a four in hand knot, thus exposing the rear blade, and being particularly effective in striped or repp ties. Better to err on the side of caution, however, leave a tie too short and you look like you work for NASA (see short sleeves), however, when employed with a studied perfection and a nod to those else in the know, a longer tie can be slimming, don’t go too long though, should you resemble a certain tangerine tinged head of state.
Black shoes, black belt.
Particularly when worn with a suit, match your leathers, anything less is garish and can split the torso into sections (this isn’t something you want). Many fine shoemakers construct belts from matching leather, who would have thunk it. Keep your belt width suitable to the rungs on your waistline, a slim belt worn with wide loops gives the effect you are holding up your trousers with a piece of string.
Wear trousers that fit.
Trousers, again this falls to preference, but as a general rule, the cuff should fall so that the back of your trouser kisses the top of your heel, the minimal bunching at the bottom of the leg is known as a break. Too short, and you are at risk of showing too much skin when seated, too long, and your legs resemble a melting candle.
Trousers should fit, and not just in the waist. Oxford bags are preferable to a trouser too tight around the thigh, but neither a sausage nor a sailboat be. If needed, opt for pleats to allow necessary room for manoeuvres, if you cannot cock your leg over a bicycle, your trousers are too tight. Another point of note, when you take a seat, lift and pinch your trouser fabric above the knee, this will save the knees of your trousers from stretching, leading to a knobbly silhouette. A cuff (or turn-ups) shouldn’t exceed 2 inches, and should correspond to your lapel width.
A capite ad calcem; A chap is a chap from head to toe, so let’s talk footwear.
In regards to socks, the cardinal rule is to match your trouser, if not your shoes, to your socks, the former can elongate the appearance of the leg, and is preferred. Every now and then the topic of white socks comes to the fore, with both sides of the debate equally populated. Now hear this, with khakis or better yet white flannels, a proper white sock (i.e. those without a garish logo adorning the ankle) is considered proper form, and can look particularly fetching with saddle shoes or white buckskin derbies. Steer clear of any novelty adornment with one’s socks, as much like the novelty tie, it will simply appear as though you are wearing a stocking filler present from a relative who does not have your best sartorial interest at heart. Going sans-socks is not to be “sniffed” at, particularly with loafers or boating shoes, though it does help to actually own a boat first (same goes for unbuttoning more than two buttons on your shirt).
Shoes, dependant on your profession and leanings, you should own a least one pair of leather shoes, spend more on these than any other separate component of your wardrobe, and you will be rewarded with longevity. Shoes made in Northampton with a Goodyear-welted sole will likely outlive you, and leave a stylish inheritance for your offspring. In a suit five days a week? Black toe-cap Oxfords. For the more casual approach, opt for loafers in cordovan leather.
If you don’t have the money to buy a pair of lifelong shoes, you can vastly improve the longevity and appearance of your footwear with a proper maintenance regimen. Look after your shoes as you would wind your watch, ie often and with due attention and care.
Of course, it should go without saying that what follows are not criteria which should be followed to the nth degree, and are to be interpreted and adapted as one sees fit.
Now that you have the basics covered, feel free to now add your own individual touches, remember, a rule bent well will beat a spartan approach hands-down. I for one opt for a shorter leg on my more casual trousers, nullifying the short legs inherited from my Father. Provided you don’t throw the baby out with the bath-water, here is where you will find your personal style, and this is something that cannot be objectively defined or advised.
If one finds something that works, don’t be afraid to wear the same thing twice in a row, some of the most stylish men have a “personal uniform” which they wear three times a week, this helps to keep your style centred and not have you frivolously opting for that silk shirt simply to look different from yesterday. It is better to look good every day than to look different every day, this is the beauty of menswear, after all, the famous statement goeth – the better your dress, the worse you can behave.
One last thing, invest in a proper pyjama set, you’ll feel less inclined to pop to the shop wearing it. This is a good thing.
Sartorial Chap Archive 